Bye-Bye Malawi
78H23 hours in the saddle (Total)
1119km up to date
7 punctures on trailer (11th plaque)
8 spokes replaced and repaired
6 hour of repairs
This past few months was so exciting; one of my accomplishments was to buy property for the street children and then starting to develop it.
All work according to plan until my third TEP (Temp employment permit) was rejected. The final result was that I had to leave Malawi. In 2005 when I applied for my first permit it cost a missionary $20 and now it’s an astonishing $900. But let it be!!!
But now we are here and this is a cycle trip I always wanted to do and that is to cycle through Zimbabwe and its beautiful country where almost everyone can speak fluent English and the nature is untouched. This country does not allow any green trees to be chopped down for charcoal neither for firewood.My final destination will be Pretoria and this I want to accomplish in 20 days. Mileage +- 1600km. On my way I have more than enough friends and my first love is to sleep in my tent in the bush. The odd African lodge will also be a choice and then to spoil myself, a hotel with warm shower. This will also be a preparation run for my cycling trip in August in Ireland and then America, April – May 2011.
28 March 2010 – Day 1
So my first day I ask my friend Charlie Dean to take me to the Mwanza border. My deportation date was for the 30th, I thought that to slip out before d-date won’t make that much noise. They can get nasty, but surprisingly that officer stamps my passport and gave Charlie permission to take me to the Mozambiqan border without blinking an eye. This was encouraging and my aim was to reach Tete and the town Moatize where Tim and Tanya will receive me. They were the Amish couple from USA that housed Mark and me on our way to Katete - Zambia. Mark always accompanies me on my cycle trips the first week and then leave for Lilongwe where I turn to the right fro Lusaka.
While cycling today I had a lot of mixed feeling were tumbling in my head, but decided that I will keep the good things and keep a forgiving spirit. I focused on the future and as God comforted me with His word Exodus 14:14 says “God will himself fight for YOU, and YOU yourselves will be silent” and in the amplified it’s translated, “stay in peace and keep in rest”. Isn’t that great and He further told me that I must trust in Him and must not be troubled.
John 14:1.
My first day went well and I cycled 106km under 6h30. At one stage the temp was well up to 41 degrees. I only arrived at 7 at Tim’s place. He had a full house so I pitch my tent in his garden. Competing with the dogs the whole night,but at the end I got a good sleep.
29th March 2010 – Day 2
The more I read the Word of God the more I believe and the more comforting it becomes. After puncture + chain repair on day two I said good-bye to Tim, Tanya, Sef, Britney and Joshua. The kids were so excited to see yesterday, I had to make a snappy escape this morning, not to show my emotions. This reminds me of our children in the street shelter house. And the way that God’s Word changes them and forms them in this huggable bunch. I always bragged about the children and their ability to perform well. When we see them in the street operating as beggars, other people will see a poor rejected child, but we will see possibilities and a child that deserves more. This is also how God sees us; He has better ideas for us, ideas that will prosper us.
I could only manage to cycle 30km. The cycling was tough and I first thought that I was dehydrated from the previous days cycling. Throughout the day I made sure that my body was fed with enough water and Thanzi (ORS), but I still felt weak and drained. I later learned and that I had a bug in my stomach, and this bug stayed with me for three days, slowing me down to an average of 30km per day. To make things worse the heat went right up to 42 degrees (107f). The paved road reflects some of the heat back up and that creates the unbearable heat.
I pitch my tent in a bush somewhere and manage to sleep early.
30st March 2010 – Day 3
Today I want to try and reach a town called Condore. +- 77km from here. I have lost few miles because of this sickness and hope that things will pick up today. Not only has the stomach bug emptied my entire digestion system, but I have been plagued by 3 punctures. The problem being that I used my old tubes from last years ride and that the patches separated because of the glue. Even some special liquid that will prevent this did not even help. But luckily whenever this happened I had a good rest and water break.
I only cycled 54km. This bug was the last thing I had anticipated, but I firmly believed the God will heal my in the middle of no wear –little by little.
Like last night I will retire to sleep under the African full moon and enjoy nature at its best.
This trailer is like a magnet, always attracting children. One thing I know is that we go about the wrong way treating these Africans. They will always associate us with receiving, money, goods, food and everything but the Good News. It’s the good news that will set them free, not our gifts.
I left this T-Shirt as a reminder to the next cylist......It was well worn
31st March 2010 - Day 4
Nyampanda is the far most northern border between Mozambique and Zimbabwe. I will work hard today to reach it. Although I’m still weak from the stomach flu, I can do better than yesterday and the day before. The border is only 54 km away and I’m sure I’ll find some African lodge to crash in.
This river was too irresistible to say no to. My bike computer red at one stage that it was 47 degrees. I literally cycled from shadow to shadow, passing this river, no one will refuse that.
At about 4 o clock that afternoon I made Nyampanda. A friendly shop owner called Billy helped me to book into a very noisy and smelly lodge. I was so tired anything will do. When all noise and African bizaar music faded as the night got older. I was due a good sleep went to sleep confessing that my healing has happened.
1 April 2010 –Day 5
After breaking the border with no hassle as usual Eddie and his wife Maisha were waiting for me on the Zim side. Eddie and became friends five years ago playing golf. Ever since he has been one of my greatest supporters when cycling.
This is day four now, and the bug is still hammering me. After a good prayer session with Eddie, I started working hard to reach Harare where I can rest at his house and have a good bath. I could only reach 65 km and that in 5H32.
At one of the road blocks a police man commented that I look tired and if it’s possible for someone to give a lift closer to Harare. That was an attractive proposal. But with no vehicles in site, I went on for a few miles. A Malawian driver recognized me from my trips and also been tip of by the police man stop and I must admit, I could not resist. Lucky helped me up to Harare with me sleeping in the passenger chair.
5th April 2010 – Day 6
Well rested and feeling much better after three days of doing nothing. I’m looking forward to today cycling the rest of the away to Pretoria. Next stop, Masvingo, Gerhard (Bara Manzi or Bore man) and Trudie. Saturday I could see my team play (Bulls) and loose to the “Blues”. But just being in a normal environment makes me want to return to South Africa. Will update when in Masvingo on Wednesday.
It took me 24 km and an hour to get out of Harare. But in general I had a good start through the not-so-heavy traffic. Unknowingly, I started my next leg on a road that was a single lane and a wave of oncoming traffic from the end of the Easter week-end. But despite of all that, I had a good cycling experience for the day. 98km in 5H54. At Beatrice I was followed by a cyclist to invite me to a guy named Edison. The cyclist (Charles) told me that Edison knows me very well and that I should visit him for the night. It turns out that we didn’t know each other from a bar of soap. So it was late and I suggested that I should sleep over. The night went well after a traditional dinner and a chat from the Word.
Edison and his brother Mumashe, stay in Ringa village on a settlement farm.
6th April 2010 – Day 7
Woke up at 6 with typical African sounds, dogs barking at nothing and an off tune cock trying to impress a tree with its false system, and also Edison’s family cleaning up last night dishes and sweeping the yard.
On my way today I met a few police men with their new radar speed monitors. The one guy even tracked my speed with me cycling and I tilted a whopping 17km/h. The maximum fine for speeding is $20 and is payable immediately. Now in Zim, US dollars and South African rand is an acceptable currency. One liter of petrol, cost $1.05. Shops are stock again and Zimbabwe is getting a new life.
Also while cycling; I detected a lot of wreckages from mostly small cars. It can be that animals cause these accidents. All though the R1, the main vain from South Africa is a single lane, loaded paved road. This can also be the challenge for some motorist. Over the Easter week-end +- 300 accidents were recorded,
Break-downs are always a part of my cycling. But with much experience and well chosen tools, the repairing proses is easier.
The heavy traffic caused me to leave the road quit often, there is no room for negotiations. Two trucks can barely pass each other on these low maintained roads.
Just in general, if I have to choose to start my mission trip again, Malawi will be on the bottom of the list, but the children will stay my first choice. I can confidently say that all the people I have met, all the projects I have started, and I will surely do it again. It was a life changing experience for me and I have no regrets. The most disappointing part of Malawi is that these people don’t have any relationship with you; they have it with money – No money, no friend, that’s how it works.
After 68km in 4h45, I arrived in a town called Chiwu and a hotel Vic’s Tavern. I booked into a fully booked motel and was surprised that it would be so busy. But had a good dinner and sleep that took me to the next day.
7th April – Day 8
Traffic seems to be slower but the weather started to build up above. Not that is a problem. The overcast clouds are cool and ideal for cycling. To my discomfort, I realized that my rain coat was not part of my equipment any more. Without success I tried back track the whereabouts of it, but with no success. So the best was to cycle from town to town and take cover at the small shopping centers reviving again.
At one stage the massive tanker stop and from of it, I saw a woman that appears to be a prostitute running towards me. While running, she wanted me to pray for her. On the back of my trailer I made cross from duck tape. After I calmed her down, we gather a whole shopping list together to pray with her. The driver and co-driver also thought that this was the time for their prayers too, so we had a whole prayer sermon going on in the middle of no wear. It was fun, and must admit it can be the highlight of my trip.
I arrived safely at a town called Chilimani and a lodge called Golden Spider Web. What a relaxing place. Dennis, the new owner made me feel at home immediately. I had the best and biggest beef pie ever, to tell you the truth I order two by mistake and a had to give up the one for the next morning. I slept well last night and was refreshed to take on the road to Masvingo where I’ll be resting for a couple of days. 72km in 4H13.
12th April 2010 - Day 9
On my rest day I met these guys from Duiwelskloof and Malelane, caring for the pensioners in Zimbabwe. They have 2070 people that need supplies on a six week basis. The estimated value per bix is almost a R1000.00(ZAR). Attie and Hannes Botha, is the founder members of Zim Pensioners Support. Also in the back ground is Norman Nimmo from Whiteriver, and he is one of the co-workers. They also cross border other donations, like washing machine, TV, cycles and clothes. In Zimbabwe the pension funds has collapsed in last 10 years and this is the ministry they serve. God bless their hand-work.
And you think you had a bad day........
Rest days at Masvingo
We attended a Inter-denomination Leadership meeting at Chiwi. They have a monthly meeting and all the surrounding churches came together to compare notes with each other. Pentecostal, Members of Christ, Baptist and ZCC.
Pastor Noel Nwenga is the Secretary of Evangelical Rural Mission – Zimbabwe, of which Pastor Gerhard Burger is a director. Past. Nowel ask us to witness in his church early Sunday morning. Pentecostal Assemblies of Zimbabwe were registered and founded by Gerhard and Noel in 2009.
Bishop Onismo Goroga from Rehoboth Light House Full Gospil Church. Invited us to come and preach, Sunday late afternoon. We had a ball....
Bishop's son pounding the drums.....nice guy!
I had the, most relaxing time at the house of Gerhard (Bora manzi) and Trudie in Masvingo. They have very supportive ministries towards strangers, widows and the fatherless.
Trudie is on the move with her knitting and crocheting. She teaches the elders to knit jerseys, shirts, hats and leg warmers, firstly for their immediate families and then their extended families. She relies on anybody who can donate old wool and knitting pens. The golden oldies can also earn a much needed income with the project. She also needs any size of knitting needles and wool for the project.
13th April 2010 – Day 10
After our good buys I left Bora Manzi and Trudie with a refreshed spirit and clean heart. My cycling started with sessions of 30km each and that will help me cover the day easily. At 13H30 I stopped for lunch and started making notes of my experience in Malawi, thinking that I owe people a good explanation and not all the rumors created by unthankful people who I stood with for so long. The weather for the day is slightly overcast and temperature only reached 27°. Earlier this morning it was 22°, thinking if winter is showing its first signs, because there is no visible change in nature that it is autumn. Only two weeks ago I cycled in the heat, reaching 47°.
For Lunch I had my favourite, tinned corn beef and KOO’s spaghetti in Tomato. But to my disappointment the tin of “bully – beef” had gone bad. But the spaghetti still made up for both.
With all the vehicles around I was wondering when fuel will run out. But God always assures me that He had made enough until the end.
My cycling for the day took me to a motel called Roth motel in the town of Ngandu, 10 km short of Lunde. African style but made a few new local friends.
This is how close the trucks can get. The picture does not tell the story in full
14th April 2010 – Day 11
Well rested I started my day at 7 knowing that the road will be far for me. Lion and Elephant is almost 112km, to go and my cycle is needs urgent repairs. Trailer tyre is disintegrating, need new chain, no more spare tubes and my inner gears is making a coffee grinding sound. I’m confident that what curve ball comes my way I will have enough experience to patch my cycle. I lost my roaming (cell phone) again and lost to the outside world. Also my faithful cycle computer renounced it retirement so I have used my GPS that my friends in Nigel sponsored me. What a great piece of equipment it turned out to be.
I arrived at L & E in the dark with a crowd cheering me. One guy followed me to see how close the trucks passed me. His word was that I must have a lot of favour with God, I replied “Don’t you think its time to join the Club”…... He smiled.
These cycling trip are so embedded in me and I enjoy so much, even if there is all these hick-ups of today.
Had a puncture for the first time in a while.
15 April 2010 – Day 12
Last night I soak myself in a bath, dragging myself out of it after a few hours. My wrinkled fingers and toes were prove of that haven’t seen that for a while. Today South Africa and I so miss my country. My prayer is that I can restart my own orphanage or feeding centrums of my own again. I miss the children and energy they have towards life.
The weather today was perfect, with no clouds and a slight wind from ahead. The only competition as usual, is the inconsiderate truck! This road from Nyampanda through Harare is a challenging cycling road. And I would suggest that to cycle it must be a last option. Zimbabwe on itself is a beautiful scenic country, and that makes up for it.
Photo below. There are hundreds of dead animals, crushed by vehicles on the side of the roads. And yes, the stench of it goes with it the whole time.
I have broken 11 spokes in Zim alone, and this happens every time I leave the road so that two trucks can pass each other from opposite directions. As you can guess, I also ran out of spare spokes, so I need to get to some cycling shop urgently.
My trailer tyre that was hopping along
30 km before Beitbridge, I had to stop for a repair, and also had to hide in the bushes. People have warned that this part of Zimbabwe is dangerous. It’s a high robbing zone, and that they are like banditos in the Wild West. Well….. this guy Phimudzo (Rest) on the left below, literally dragged me to his car to get me to safety. Well that is not the story I want to tell.
The bakkie (pick-up) in the back ground, it’s full of fly-invested meat for his butchery called “Sole saving Butchery”. On our way to his butchery he took a detour to avoid police and a Toll road, costing only $1 USD. But if you look close to the car, it’s so illegal; he would get a death penalty for even looking at the car. Well anyway, I thanked him by buying him and his friends Albert a coke.
Next stop the border and SA.
In Musina I got hooked up with a couple from the Dutch Reformed Church – Musina Referent Anton and Hester Kemp. But first stop was at the Spur Restaurant to eat my favourite, Spur Burger, chip and salad dressing sauce…. That takes away a lot of the day’s memories.
Tomorrow, spare part hunting and repairs for the last 500km or so.
16th April 2010 - Day 14
No cycling shops in Musina, so we decided to head on to Louise Trichardt. Anton who is also a keen cyclist took me to the "Cyclist Centre LT", about a 100km from Musina. We also decided its best that I go from there. I need a day to repair the cycle and must admit I want to go home now.
Mohammed and Anton on the left
Mohammed turned out to be a blessing and his son, Junior is so dedicated. Al though it took 6 hours to repair my Rocky Mountain, it was worth while waiting and spending the money. With some new part fitted I decided to head out to a motel called Lalapanzi. This was the most comfortable (my bottom hurting) 35km I've cycled in a long time. The gears were smooth and trailer was not hopping behind me.
At Lalapanzi I quickly made new friends and were booked into a luxury room but for the standard price. Lalapanzi brought back many memories, for this was a area I use to cover for tyre companies, selling tyres.
17th April 2010 - Day 15
My final destination - Pretoria
Breakfast was good and being the only customer, service was no problem. I was looking forward to the road to Polokwane, broad shoulder on the paved road, excellent weather and sort of a down hill, with the cycle well oiled.
I am also ready for my Ireland trip, and confident that I will find a new project to fundraise for. I will always remember my dad words, "You always have the ability to stand up and go on". And with my relationship with "Our Father" that is just what I'm going to do.
One of the signs on my trip. As you turn left at the breweries in Polokwane, you will find frogs in the road.
At my last stop in Balfour on the farm Leeukop I met this guy with his weather prove cycle. Transkei and his invention.
My trip stopped in Polokwane at my friend's Basil and his wife Annette house, hosting me for a week. I had six nights of solid sleep and woke up every morning refreshed and with the Joy of the Lord.
In my thoughts I tried to work out what’s next.... but failing every time. I must admit for the first time in a while I do not know what’s the next move. Maybe it’s the best place to be. In James 1:5 its says, that we must ask God for wisdom…. Will He give me the answer soon? a New season for a reason........
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